This everything bagel cheesesteak is greasy, glorious Jersey fusion

Aiming to strike a balance between the championed cheesesteaks of South Jersey and bustling bagel shops of North Jersey, one Garden State steak shop is bending the rules.

At Gouldsburger’s in Haddonfield, the classic sandwich is served on an everything roll, of course inspired by an everything bagel.

The South Jersey eatery opened in April 2023 by chefs Walter Gouldsbury and David Murray (who also own Crumb, a popular sandwich shop in South Jersey) and the dish has already made its way to the No. 4 spot on NJ.com’s ranking of New Jersey’s 39 best cheesesteaks.

The everything roll is a hit at Gouldsburger’s, but got its start at Crumb when they were crafting their own bagels in-house back in January 2023.

“We tried a little bit of meat and cheese one day on the everything bagel and went from there,” Gouldsbury told NJ Advance Media.

Gouldsbury said the eatery initially made the everything roll one bread option, but it was so popular it eventually became the default. The eatery is selling about 900 cheesesteaks per week although it closes on Mondays. Gouldsburger’s now partners with Boaggio’s Bread of Mount Laurel for its baking needs. They also serve a gluten-free version of the everything roll.

As novel as the sandwich sounds, it’s part of a larger trend. It isn’t just that everything bagels — coated with garlic, onion, poppy seeds, sesame seeds and salt — are likely the most beloved type of bagel. That tasty quintet of seasonings has become trendy and ever-present in the culinary world, a spice cabinet staple at home and a common addition to restaurant menus. There’s now everything-flavored ice cream. And empanadas. At one point there was even an everything bagel pizza pie at popular Asbury Park pizzeria Talula’s.

So why not a cheesesteak? It could be a delicious combination, but it could also be a salty overload considering how much sodium both dishes pack. Thankfully, Gouldsburger’s balances the two dishes deliciously.

The everything bagel seasoning on the roll is present but not overpowering and it still has the soft texture of a roll — otherwise it would be a challenge to chew. The slight garlicky saltiness of the roll compliments the subtle sweetness of the filling. I didn’t get fried onions on my steak in an attempt to sample the sandwich in its purest form.

“We don’t overload it like you would an everything bagel,” Gouldsbury said. “It’s lightly seeded because it’s all about the balance.”

And we must talk about the cheese. Cooper sharp cheese has gained acclaim throughout the South Jersey and Philadelphia region in the past few years as cheesesteak stalwarts like Brynn Bradley, Corson’s Steaks and Lillo’s Tomato Pies have been using it. It’s not yet as widely accepted in the cheesesteak community as cheese whiz or provolone, but is well on its way. Gouldsburger’s uses yellow Cooper sharp (white Cooper sharp is more common) on its steaks. I had never eaten the yellow version, let alone seen it before. It would be easy to confuse the cheese with yellow American or cheese whiz at first glance. But one bite of the bold cheese, carrying a distinctive creaminess and gooeyness, will assure you’re eating a completely different queso.

“We’re the only ones, at least in South Jersey, the only ones using yellow Cooper sharp,” Gouldsbury claimed. “And this roll.”

Gouldsbury and Murray opened a second location in the Logan Square neighborhood of Philadelphia in April, and more expansion is in the works. A Medford outpost is planned in the next few weeks, a location at the University of Pennsylvania is coming in the coming months and the owners eventually hope to begin franchising in South Jersey.

Their other restaurant, Crumb, landed on NJ.com’s latest ranking of the state’s best cheesesteaks as well, with its unique cheesesteak served on focaccia bread cheesesteak sandwich. The partners are also opening Umile Trattoria, a concept serving pasta, pizza and other Italian-inspired dishes, in Haddonfield this fall.

The everything bagel seeded roll is an undeniable lunch or dinnertime hit. But my ideal addition to the sandwich would be a fried egg, creating a specular breakfast item: a lazy Saturday morning-style breakfast heavy enough to induce a mid-morning nap.

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Christopher Burch can be reached at [email protected]. Follow him on Twitter: @SwishBurch. Find NJ.com on Facebook. Have a tip? Tell us at nj.com/tips/.